Loliolide is a monoterpenoid hydroxylactone found in many algae, including fresh water green algae, Prasiola japonica. To date, loliolide and compounds in P. japonica have not been studied systematically with respect to skin pharmacology. In this study, we investigated oxidative stress-protective and anti-melanogenic effects of loliolide and P. japonica ethanol extract (Pj-EE), known to contain loliolide, in human keratinocyte (HaCaT) cells and mouse melanoma (B16F10) cells. Loliolide suppressed the transcription of genes encoding matrix metalloproteinases (MMPS), which were induced in HaCaT cells by hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂) treatment. Loliolide and Pj-EE not only reduced the melanin secretion and content in B16F10 cells but also increased the expression of the antioxidant proteins nuclear factor (erythroid-derived 2)-like 2 (NRF2) and heme oxygenase-1 (HO-1) in HaCaT cells subjected to H₂O₂ treatment. Furthermore, loliolide and Pj-EE decreased expression of the anti-melanogenic protein microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) and tyrosinase in B16F10 cells subjected to α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH) treatment. Our findings demonstrate that loliolide and Pj-EE have antioxidant and anti-melanogenic effects on skin.

Melanogenesis is the biological process which the skin pigment melanin is synthesized to protect the skin against ultraviolet irradiation and other external stresses. Abnormal biology of melanocytes is closely associated with depigmented skin disorders such as vitiligo. In this study, we examined the effects of maclurin on melanogenesis and cytoprotection. Maclurin enhanced cellular tyrosinase activity as well as cellular melanin levels. We found that maclurin treatment increased the expression of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase-related protein- (TRP-) 1, TRP-2, and tyrosinase. Mechanistically, maclurin promoted melanogenesis through cyclic adenosine monophosphate (cAMP) response element binding (CREB) protein-dependent upregulation of MITF. CREB activation was found to be mediated by p38 mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) or cAMP-protein kinase A (PKA) signaling. In addition, maclurin-induced CREB phosphorylation was mediated through the activation of both the cAMP/PKA and the p38 MAPK signaling pathways. Maclurin-induced suppression of p44/42 MAPK activation also contributed to its melanogenic activity. Furthermore, maclurin showed protective effects against H2O2 treatment and UVB irradiation in human melanocytes. These findings indicate that the melanogenic effects of maclurin depend on increased MITF gene expression, which is mediated by the activation of both p38 MAPK/CREB and cAMP/PKA/CREB signaling. Our results thus suggest that maclurin could be useful as a protective agent against hypopigmented skin disorders.

Patrinia villosa (Thunb.) Juss is a traditional herb commonly used in East Asia including Korea, Japan, and China. It has been administered to reduce and treat inflammation in Donguibogam, Korea. The mechanism for its anti-inflammatory effects has already been reported. In this study, we confirmed the efficacy of Patrinia villosa (Thunb.) Juss ethanol extract (Pv-EE) for inducing autophagy and investigate its anti-melanogenic properties. Melanin secretion and content were investigated using cells from the melanoma cell line B16F10. Pv-EE inhibited melanin in melanogenesis induced by α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH). The mechanism of inhibition of Pv-EE was confirmed by suppressing the mRNA of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), decreasing the phosphorylation level of CREB, and increasing the phosphorylation of ERK. Finally, it was confirmed that Pv-EE induces autophagy through the autophagy markers LC3B and p62, and that the anti-melanogenic effect of Pv-EE is inhibited by the autophagy inhibitor 3-methyl adenine (3-MA). These results suggest that Pv-EE may be used as a skin protectant due to its anti-melanin properties including autophagy.

Theasinensin A (TSA) is a major group of catechin dimers mainly found in oolong tea and black tea. This compound is also manufactured with epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) as a substrate and is refined after the enzyme reaction. In previous studies, TSA has been reported to be effective against inflammation. However, the effect of these substances on skin melanin formation remains unknown. In this study, we unraveled the role of TSA in melanogenesis using mouse melanoma B16F10 cells and normal human epidermal melanocytes (NHEMs) through reverse transcription polymerase chain reaction (RT-PCR), Western blotting analysis, luciferase reporter assay, and enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay analysis. TSA inhibited melanin formation and secretion in α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-induced B16F10 cells and NHEMs. TSA down-regulated the mRNA expression of tyrosinase (Tyr), tyrosinase-related protein 1 (Tyrp1), and Tyrp2, which are all related to melanin formation in these cells. TSA was able to suppress the activities of certain proteins in the melanocortin 1 receptor (MC1R) signaling pathway associated with melanin synthesis in B16F10 cells: cyclic adenosine monophosphate (cAMP) response element-binding protein (CREB), protein kinase A (PKA), tyrosinase, and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF). We also confirmed α-MSH-mediated CREB activities through a luciferase reporter assay, and that the quantities of cAMP were reduced by TSA in the enzyme linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA) results. Based on these findings, TSA should be considered an effective inhibitor of hyperpigmentation.

Linosorbs (Los) are cyclic peptides from flaxseed oil composed of the LO mixture (LOMIX). The activity of LO has been reported as being anti-cancer and anti-inflammatory. However, the study of skin protection has still not proceeded. In particular, there are poorly understood mechanisms of melanogenesis to LO. Therefore, we investigated the anti-melanogenesis effects of LOMIX and LO, and its activity was examined in mouse melanoma cell lines. The treatment of LOMIX (50 and 100 μg/mL) and LO (6.25-50 μM) suppressed melanin secretion and synthesis, which were 3-fold increased, in a dose-dependent manner, up to 95%. In particular, [1-9-NαC]-linusorb B3 (LO1) and [1-9-NαC]-linusorb B2 (LO2) treatment (12.5 and 25 μM) highly suppressed the synthesis of melanin in B16F10 cell lines up to 90%, without toxicity. LOMIX and LOs decreased the 2- or 3-fold increased mRNA levels, including the microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), Tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TYRP1), and tyrosinase-related protein 2 (TYRP2) at the highest concentration (25 μM). Moreover, the treatment of 25 μM LO1 and LO2 inhibited the expression of MITF and phosphorylation of upper regulatory proteins such as CREB and PKA. Taken together, these results suggested that LOMIX and its individual LO could inhibit melanin synthesis via downregulating the CREB-dependent signaling pathways, and it could be used for novel therapeutic materials in hyperpigmentation.

Ethnopharmacological Relevance. Penthorum chinense Pursh (Penthoraceae) is a traditional herbal plant that has been used in China for the treatment of jaundice, cholecystitis, edema, and infectious hepatitis. In addition, the Korea Medicinal Plant Dictionary states that Penthorum chinense Pursh can be used to treat contusions and skin bruises by improving blood flow. Recent studies have shown that Penthorum chinense Pursh ethanol extract (Pc-EE) exhibits strong antioxidant effects. In this study, we examined the effects of Pc-EE on UVB-induced or H2O2-induced oxidative stress, as well as its antimelanogenic properties. Cell viability, matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) expression, cyclooxygenease-2 (COX-2), and interleukin-6 (IL-6) expression and moisturizing factors were investigated in keratinocytes. Collagen synthesis induction was measured in HEK293T cells. For melanogenesis, the effects of Pc-EE on melanin content and tyrosinase activity were measured. Additionally, the antimelanogenic- and autophagy-inducing activities of Pc-EE were examined using immunoblotting and confocal microscopy. Pc-EE protected HaCaT cells against death from UVB irradiation- or H2O2-induced oxidative stress. Pc-EE increased the promoter activity of the type 1 procollagen gene Col1A1 and decreased the expression of MMPs, COX-2, IL-6, and hyaluronidase induced by UVB irradiation- or H2O2-induced oxidative stress. Pc-EE showed a strong antioxidant effect in the DPPH assay. In α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone- (α-MSH-) stimulated B16F10 cells, Pc-EE reduced melanin production, decreased tyrosinase expression and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) protein levels, and decreased the phosphorylation levels of p38 and JNK. In HEK293T cells, Pc-EE promoted the expression of GFP-LC3B. In B16F10 cells, the LC3B and melanin contents were reduced by Pc-EE and were restored by the autophagy inhibitor 3-methyladenine (3-MA). These results suggest that Pc-EE can be used as a skin protection agent due to its antiapoptotic, antiaging, anti-inflammatory, and antimelanogenic properties.

The Licania genus has been used in the treatment of dysentery, diabetes, inflammation, and diarrhea in South America. Of these plants, the strong anti-inflammatory activity of Licania macrocarpa Cuatrec (Chrysobalanaceae) has been reported previously. However, the beneficial activities of this plant on skin health have remained unclear. This study explores the protective activity of a methanol extract (50-100 μg/mL) in the aerial parts of L. macrocarpa Cuatrec (Lm-ME) and its mechanism, in terms of its moisturizing/hydration factors, skin wrinkles, UV radiation-induced cell damage, and radical generation (using RT/real-time PCR, carbazole assays, flowcytometry, DPPH/ABTS, and immunoblotting analysis). The anti-pigmentation role of Lm-ME was also tested by measuring levels of melanin, melanogenesis-related genes, and pigmentation-regulatory proteins. Lm-ME decreased UVB-irradiated death in HaCaT cells by suppressing apoptosis and inhibited matrix metalloproteinases 1/2 (MMP1/2) expression by enhancing the activity of extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK), c-Jun N-terminal kinase (JNK), and p38. It was confirmed that Lm-ME displayed strong antioxidative activity. Lm-ME upregulated the expression of hyaluronan synthases-2/3 (HAS-2/3) and transglutaminase-1 (TGM-1), as well as secreted levels of hyaluronic acid (HA) via p38 and JNK activation. This extract also significantly inhibited the production of hyaluronidase (Hyal)-1, -2, and -4. Lm-ME reduced the melanin expression of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase, and tyrosinase-related protein-1/2 (TYRP-1/2) in α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-treated B16F10 cells via the reduction of cAMP response element-binding protein (CREB) and p38 activation. These results suggest that Lm-ME plays a role in skin protection through antioxidative, moisturizing, cytoprotective, and skin-lightening properties, and may become a new and promising cosmetic product beneficial for the skin.